Redemption

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By Paul Diffley and Chris Prescott
Category Film Reviewed byEd Douglas
Date Friday, 5 December 2014
Rating Rating 4 out of 5

James Pearson’s meteoric rise as climbing’s latest wunderkind came to a juddering halt in 2009 when the route he had awarded the unprecedented grade of E12 – Walk of Life – was judged to be ‘only’ E9 by the first man to repeat it, Dave MacLeod. Having disappeared abroad for a few years, Pearson returned in the autumn to climb Rhapsody and find closure after his loss of face. This film thoughtfully retraces Pearson’s journey, exploring not just one individual’s personal motivation but some of the pitfalls of modern rock climbing too – but pulls one punch that would have made it a knockout.

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Play Up, Then Cheat

Posted by Ed Douglas at 1.54 PM

So I’m working away, listening to the cricket, when my friend Henry Iddon mentions on twitter that he’s reading Frank Nugent’s entertaining history of early Irish mountaineers, of whom our joint favourite is Lizzie Le Blond, whose climbing activities became a society scandal. Anyway, Lizzie’s first husband was the adventurer and army officer Fred Burnaby, who admitted with refreshing honesty that Lizzie was both more adventurous and much, much more intelligent, shortly before he met his death at the Battle of Abu Klea, ...
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