Redemption

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By Paul Diffley and Chris Prescott
Category Film Reviewed byEd Douglas
Date Friday, 5 December 2014
Rating Rating 4 out of 5

James Pearson’s meteoric rise as climbing’s latest wunderkind came to a juddering halt in 2009 when the route he had awarded the unprecedented grade of E12 – Walk of Life – was judged to be ‘only’ E9 by the first man to repeat it, Dave MacLeod. Having disappeared abroad for a few years, Pearson returned in the autumn to climb Rhapsody and find closure after his loss of face. This film thoughtfully retraces Pearson’s journey, exploring not just one individual’s personal motivation but some of the pitfalls of modern rock climbing too – but pulls one punch that would have made it a knockout.

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From Kendal to Wakefield

Posted by Ed Douglas at 10.04 AM

November is the month of festivals, crammed into what was traditionally world mountaineering’s most useless month, although these days that’s no longer true, especially in Nepal. A longstanding book project was therefore put on hold so I could disappear to Banff as part of the book prize jury and to interview Yvon Chouinard, finish some writing assignments and then go to Kendal having digested this year’s short list for the Boardman Tasker so I could interview the authors – which was a great pleasure for me, if not for ...
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